That was a lot to read. Please provide the ECU code numbers (all of them). Rather have the code numbers than a written narrative about what the problems are. That would help a lot. I'm assuming your 1997 Celica GT has the 2.2L 5S-FE engine? Also, were the replacement igniters all Toyota OEM parts? If so, what is the Toyota part number shown on the igniter (in the form of xxxxx-xxxxx)?

 

Thank you for taking your time to take interest in this. Code when on is p1300 (problem with ignitor circuit). You are correct on engine size, as to 5s I do not know that. The replacements were not Toyota OEM. Including the original that was on car, three more were replaced each from different stores.
Import Direct Ignition Control Module - 14-0186
I was sent a reply to this post yesterday, stating to check the temp. sensor and upon reading up on it, weirdly enough the symptoms are actually a lot like what I am getting. I have a new one and will replace today. It kind of logically seems like that maybe it oddly enough. I have always thought in my mind that upon initial start everything is cold. When I stop it to go shopping everything is now hot and that is when the restart problem occurs. If the car were to sit for many hours, it will start back up and run perfect and no CEL. PLRASE if you have any more ideas, I would really appreciate it. I will advise as to the temp sensor idea working or not. Again, thanks so much.

 

Hopefully your shop and you replaced original Toyota OEM parts with new Toyota OEM parts. Looks like for the igniter, this may not be the case. If you have your old original igniter yet, best to reinstall that one. Toyota control systems do not do well with aftermarket things like igniters and distributors.

Given new parts haven't provided positive & long-lasting improvement, I suspect none of the old parts that were removed are part of the problem (possible exception being the distributor & igniters, but if you have the originals yet, I would return them to service).

I'm getting the impression you either have some kind of wiring problem or you have an ECU with capacitors that are failing on you. There is a history out there on this era of 5S-FE engine having similar symptoms and found capacitor leaks/failures on the ECU circuit board.

The Toyota OEM Repair Manual does a good job jumping into the P1300 issue regarding what diagnostics to do and by following it, will take you to the likely single problem causing it. If you lack experience with electronic controls and getting voltage/resistance values with meters on various components, best to have a good mechanic do it. But they will need the service manual. Do you have an original set of service manual volumes for your Celica?

If you provide the VIN of your car, I can look up the specific part number for your ECU. You may be able to find some used ones online. Otherwise, there are a few 6th Gen Celica's in the yard by me that may have an ECU for you, if you want to try that instead of doing the diagnostics. If you don't want to share your VIN in this public forum, you can shoot me a PM (private message, called a conversation in this forum).

 

Hopefully your shop and you replaced original Toyota OEM parts with new Toyota OEM parts. Looks like for the igniter, this may not be the case. If you have your old original igniter yet, best to reinstall that one. Toyota control systems do not do well with aftermarket things like igniters and distributors.

Given new parts haven't provided positive & long-lasting improvement, I suspect none of the old parts that were removed are part of the problem (possible exception being the distributor & igniters, but if you have the originals yet, I would return them to service).

I'm getting the impression you either have some kind of wiring problem or you have an ECU with capacitors that are failing on you. There is a history out there on this era of 5S-FE engine having similar symptoms and found capacitor leaks/failures on the ECU circuit board.

The Toyota OEM Repair Manual does a good job jumping into the P1300 issue regarding what diagnostics to do and by following it, will take you to the likely single problem causing it. If you lack experience with electronic controls and getting voltage/resistance values with meters on various components, best to have a good mechanic do it. But they will need the service manual. Do you have an original set of service manual volumes for your Celica?

If you provide the VIN of your car, I can look up the specific part number for your ECU. You may be able to find some used ones online. Otherwise, there are a few 6th Gen Celica's in the yard by me that may have an ECU for you, if you want to try that instead of doing the diagnostics. If you don't want to share your VIN in this public forum, you can shoot me a PM (private message, called a conversation in this forum).

Thank you so much for all the time and information you just provided. I am doing an experiment right now, just replaced the temp sensor as I read that can cause similar problems. I drove it, let it sit for 20 minutes, started right up, normally it would not after a good warm up and sitting time. I am going to do this three or more times to see the outcome. Either way I will let you know for sure and thanks so much.

 

Is your check engine light still coming on? Are you still getting the DTC P1300 from your ECU? A temperature sensor cannot cause code P1300.

 

I did not check the code it threw after the initial sensor install and start; however, the light did come on and stayed on the first part of my trial, (with new temp sensor installed). Before when I could finally get if started before new unit, the CEL would go off. Second and third part of my trial I took the car out 2 more times each time shutting off and letting it sit for a half hour or so, started both of these times no problem and still no CEL. Note, minutes before I installed the temp sensor, I did clean the screw in orifice that goes into the engine which is connected to the MAP sensor via air hose and sprayed some wd40 in the MAP itself. Again, I want to thank you for the help on this. I will appreciate any input you have going forward. I plan on doing several more trips and shut down tests and will advise.

 

I would still get the codes from your ECU. If a check engine light was on, but not currently, that code is still stored in the ECU for quite some time, unless you reset the ECU by removing battery power to it all the time).

 

Thanks for the reminder.

 

You have a bad MASS AIR FLOW unit. I forgot what Toyota called it but it took me a couple of years to find the issue on my 1991 Celica GT convertible.

 

I changed the temp sensor and cleaned the map sensor, it seems these were the fix.

 

If you are still having problems (it's been a month now, almost, since we last chatted), let us know. If you are having problems, please provide your VIN. I'd like to see what ECU must be in your car. There are a few of these 6th Gen Celica's in the salvage yard be me. If one matches yours, would be good to set that aside at the salvage yard, just in case you run out of options leaving the ECU as a likely cause. The ECU part number needs to match yours exactly. There are several part numbers for each model year, and it depends upon model year, engine type, transmission type, emissions type, etc.

 

Hi, 93celicaconv, and overall Toyota Celica community - I'm following up on this old thread given that I have a similar problem to the original poster. I have a 97 GT convertible with a 2.2L 5S-FE engine. I'm getting a P1300 code - Ignitor circuit fault #1. I had this problem 3 1/2 years ago at 80,800 odometer miles, which required the replacement of the ECU #89661-2D700. A charge of $490 was applied for the ECU in November, 2021. The diagnosis and installation was done by a reputable auto electric service company.

Beyond this issue, the car is in fantastic shape, now with 88,800 miles. I'm assuming that I have another ECU failure and that this may have become a chronic problem, requiring the purchase of another module. I'd like to know of any tricks to confirm the problem. Also, I'm not intimidated by a nut or bolt and assume that the replacement of the ECU is pretty straightforward. However, I'm not so good with technology and am concerned that there is a software update that I will need to perform. Also, is there any opinion on the online vendors that offer OEM rebuilds. Some of the reviews are less than 5 stars. Basically, I'm looking for direction from folks that have been there. Thanks in advance for the help and expertise. Jim

 

If you want to do electrical diagnosis, you'll need a high end meter with HZ/duty cycle or oscilloscope, ability to pierce wires or access the pins on wire harness pigtails, electrical diagram and a deep understanding of the signals produced/received by the ECU.

For ignition circuits, the ECU receivea a signal from the distributor or crank position sensor. It then sends a signal to the ignitor that controls the coil. A confirmation signal is often sent back to the ECU.

 

Thanks, Sefiro, for the quick response.
I knew I was out of my depth from an expertise and hardware perspective. My original thought was to buy an ECU from one of the the various online options, Flagship One, All Computer, etc. After confirming the VIN and ECU model number, they tout being plug and play. Do you or other forum colleagues have an opinion on this option? Have you had success "poking and hoping?" Are there other avenues to pursue, or do you recommend that I go back to a professional?

 

Parts shotgun....
You can replace parts until the car works, but you could end up spending so much on extra parts that weren't needed.

Time to learn diagnostic testing so you'll be better educated about how the car operates and being able to identify the 1 part that needs replacing.

 

Hello 5625,
Did you resolve your problem? Didn't see your post earlier in April (you should have started a new thread). I purchased an ECU from Flagship in March 2025 and it worked. So far 6 months later it is still working. I opened up my ECU and didn't see a leaking capacitor but it could have been break in the circuit or something else not visible (or a capacitor failure that's not visible). You can test the igniter, as there are some youtube videos on that, but it's not easy. I think the Flagship ECU when purchased from Ebay can be returned if it doesn't solve your issue.